La Rhune

La Rhune is a prominent mountain in the Pays Basque landscape and in everyday conversation. It is often referred to when specifying a location or predicting the weather. Everyone knows that a house facing La Rhune will have great sun exposure. Located on the border of France and Spain, it is part of the Pyrenees and has an elevation 905m (2,969 feet).

A popular attraction is to take a ride on La Petit Train up to the top, for the panoramic views and tapas.  I did this with my family when they visited in 2012 and we loved it.

The other way to get to the top, is to climb it. I climbed La Rhune for the first time this summer and the reward was worth it. After weeks of rain, we had gorgeous weather today and decided it was the perfect day to climb La Rhune again.  We started from the town of Ascain and made the 780 meter trek to the top in 1 1/2 hours.

Pottok (Basque ponies) and Manech Sheep (Pyrenean dairy sheep) kept us motivated along the way.

The rocky trails that lead up to the summit offer spectacular views of the Basque countryside and coast. They also hold centuries of secrets and history as the home to witches and serpents, war battles and smuggling routes.

The Bay of Saint Jean de Luz

Hendaye

We enjoyed our Sunday tradition, but this time with a view of the Côte Basque!

Sunday Traditions

Although I wish we did, we do not eat croissants and chocolatines for breakfast every morning.  The weekends are an exception. After trying every croissant and chocolatine in town (for research purposes), I can say that my favorites are from Boulangerie Labechiloa.

Labechiloa was the first boulangerie I visited in Saint Jean de Luz, 10 years ago. Things were a little different back then. After staying out all night, we waited in front of the boulangerie for it to open, so we could have the first warm chocolatines that came out of the oven. This was a ritual for young locals after long summer nights. Those warm chocolatines changed my life, in more ways than one.

* Chocolatine is the name for a chocolate croissant in the Southwest of France. In other parts of France it is called pain au chocolat. 

 

In 2007, my belle-soeur and I found ourselves there again, waiting in front of the Boulangerie Labechiloa at 5:00am. Things had changed 3 years later and this time we came from our warm beds to learn how these amazing pastries were made. 

Our Sunday tradition these days is start our day with one of each - a croissant and a chocolatine - and the newspaper. If it is nice outside, we sit in the Place Louis XIV with a tea and have great conversation. As Pilou says, I am lucky he lets me read the headlines.

I will be adding to this tradition by writing a new blog post each Sunday.  I hope reading this blog becomes a part of your Sunday tradition.

Marché de Saint Jean de Luz

One of my favorite things about living in France is the availability of local, good quality, delicious food that is grown and prepared by passionate people in a thoughtful way. We are lucky to have amazing markets in Saint Jean de Luz, including a daily fish market and Les Halles, an indoor marketplace. But the really special days are Tuesdays and Fridays, when local producers and artisans come to display their products outside Les Halles. I look forward to le marché for the people as much as the food. I always come home with unexpected finds and great stories. 

This is the season for yellow kiwis, which are grown just north of here along the l'Adour River. I had never tried them before moving here, but they quickly became one of my favorite treats.

With the colder weather, we make a pumpkin and squash soup at least once a week. We mix in white beans to make it more hearty, something I learned from Mamie (Pilou's Grandmother).

Another local treat, Endives from Urrugne. 

This handsome man makes confiture and sauces with his wife, that he sells alongside his selection of fruits, vegetables and other treasures.  My favorites are his strawberry-basil jam and eucalyptus honey. He also makes jam with roses from his garden and a lavender rosemary gelée, that Pilou loves. He has a story to tell about everything and he always convinces me to try something new. His warm smile reminds me of my Grandpa Charlie, who also had a produce stand in Los Angeles and was one of the world's best storytellers.  

I love that the woman I buy my eggs from has a picture of the chickens running wild and I also love that the eggs have the the most incredible orange yolks. 

Tourton, a mix between brioche and bread, from Organic Boulanger Axola Gabe.  Perfect for Pain Perdu. {French Toast}

 After the market you can find me and my belle-soeur at Chez Kako for coffee/tea. From here you have a great view of the market action.