Côté Mer, Côté Campagne

Our corner of the Pays Basque is ideally situated between the ocean and the countryside. My favorite days are the ones where we get to enjoy both. Yesterday was one of those days, we spent the morning at the mer and afternoon in the campagne.

Saint Jean de Luz has an active fishing port that dates back to the 15th century. I spend a lot of time here hoping to see the fishermen arrive with their daily catch. Saturday, I hit the fishing boat jackpot. Five boats were lined up at the docks, unloading over 3 tons of Mackerel. I was amazed to see the different generations of fishermen, carrying on the tradition.  One day I hope to join them on a fishing trip.

These local fishermen sell their fish in Ciboure, every morning.

 After lunch we headed to the Basque countryside, to the village of Sare. We spent the afternoon gardening and visiting with farm animals, including 10 day old chicks! 

From Ciboure with Love

Ciboure has a special place in my heart. The small town which sits on the other side of the harbor from Saint Jean de Luz, is where we now call home. Boulevard Pierre Benoit, the road that follows the coastline through Ciboure, is the road we drove along on a Vespa after we became husband and wife, on the way to our wedding reception. From our house, I can see the spot along this road where we were stopped by police, who couldn't believe that a new bride was on the back of a scooter in her wedding dress without a helmet!! (They ended up escorting us to ensure we arrived safely.) I can also see EgiaTegia, the winery where we celebrated our marriage with our family and friends.  These daily reminders of our wedding are my favorite things about living in Ciboure, but there are many other reasons why I love this town.

In a matter of footsteps you can visit the 16th century Saint-Vincent church, feed the local deer, have a latte in an English bookshop, imagine Henri Matisse painting a masterpiece in his old residence, take in some of the best views of Saint Jean de Luz and enjoy a drink watching locals play Pelote on the fronton. You can watch the fishing boats come in and buy their daily catch at the criée. And every Sunday morning, there is a traditional outdoor market. It is hard to imagine that all of this exists in one small town. 

Roaming the picturesque streets of old Ciboure transports me to another time. The narrow winding roads are lined with traditional Basque homes, each with impossibly charming details. I especially love the unique doors and imagining the history that lies behind them. It seems impossible to uncover every hidden corner of this town, but I love trying.